Newfoundland & Labrador: Discover the Past
from WorldWeb.com Travel Guide

While different areas of Canada have very distinct characters and cultures, Newfoundland and Labrador really does stand out from the rest of the country. Perhaps this is because a large part of it is an island, and the other part - Labrador - is attached to the mainland, and is very isolated. Another theory is that this uniqueness is because Newfoundland and Labrador was a separate entity until 1949, only becoming part of Canada in that year. Whatever the reason, there is definitely nowhere else like the 'Rock', as it is affectionately known. The first thing that the visitor notices that is different is the speech of the locals. The distinct lilting accent and inflections tend to make you think you are in some Celtic region rather than in North America. But the language is set apart by more than the accent; the idiom and slang are simply amazing. This is even reflected in the wonderful place names that can be found all over the province, places such as Nick's Nose Cove, Main Tickle and Leading Tickles, and Come-by-Chance. Or Heart's Delight, Ha Ha Bay or Witless Bay. These names are also a reflection of the wonderful sense of humour of the province's people. Although Newfoundlanders and Labradorians are often the subject of some fairly benign jokes from other Canadians, in reality they have a quick-wittedness and native intelligence that is hard to match.

GEOGRAPHY

	The Entrance to St. John's Harbour

As well as a friendly and inimitable people, the geographical features here are remarkable. The northern part of the island of Newfoundland and the whole of Labrador are part of the Laurentian Shield, one of the first geological formations on the planet. What is fascinating is that this part of the province is perhaps the only place on earth that has remained geographically and geologically unchanged since before animal life forms appeared. Throughout the province the links and ties to the ocean are almost overwhelming, and the historical, cultural and social bonds to the sea are indestructible. The rapid demise of the cod fishery has been devastating for the people of Newfoundland and Labrador. Whatever the future holds, the surrounding ocean will still play a very crucial role. The great majority of Newfoundland and Labrador residents live in the bays, coves and fjords of the varied coastline. Inland, all over the province, the terrain consists mostly of boreal forest and wilderness, peat bogs and many rivers and lakes. The whole area is relatively unspoiled, which is amazing when one realizes that Newfoundland and Labrador were some of the first parts of North America to be colonized.

HISTORY

Aboriginal settlement of Newfoundland and Labrador has been dated back at least 7,500 years. At L'Anse-Amour Burial Mound in southern Labrador, the remains of a Maritime Archaic First Nations youth dating back to this time have been discovered. It is the oldest burial mound of its kind in North America. The nomadic Beothuk Aboriginals inhabited the area for about 500 years. Unfortunately the last Beothuk died in 1829, a tribe wiped out by the diseases and weaponry of European settlers. This was not intentional, but hopefully a lesson has been learned from this tragedy.

The history of Newfoundland and Labrador is similar to that of most of Eastern Canada, in that many of the struggles between the European Colonial powers, and later those of the American Revolutionary Wars took place in or off the shores of Newfoundland. Although it is now certain that Viking settlers reached the island's shores around 1,000 years ago, the continual European settlement of the region began in 1497, when a Genoan named John Cabot, in the employ of the merchants of Bristol, England, landed his ship The 'Matthew' at Cape Bonavista. Shortly thereafter explorers from France and Portugal came to the area. Word soon spread concerning the treasure in the form of seemingly endless stocks of fish, which were to be found in the waters off the island, and Spaniards and Basques came to the area. In 1583 Sir Humphrey Gilbert, declared Newfoundland a British Colony - the first piece of the once mighty British Empire. Small settlements waxed and waned, and the Newfoundland settlers came from all over Western Europe, but with a predominance of Irish, Scots, and English. The Portuguese and Basque influence was also quite strong. Newfoundland became a British Dominion and thereby gained self-government in 1855. Due to major financial struggles, the island lost its dominion status in 1934 and a commission that answered to London governed the island. After much debate and controversy Newfoundland and Labrador became Canada's tenth province on March 31st 1949.

ECONOMY

Newfoundland Fishing Boats

The most significant event in recent time on the province has definitely been the alarming reduction in cod stocks, and the resultant effect on the whole fabric of Newfoundland and Labrador society. Fishing has always been the lifeblood all over the province. Some of the drastic economic downfall that the decline in the cod fishery has caused, will be off-set by the discovery of large reserves of natural resources, especially nickel in Labrador, and off-shore oil. Environmental concerns and external influences have somewhat tempered enthusiasm for these projects, but doubtless they will eventually have a positive effect on the economy of the region. Additionally a new emphasis on lobster fishing is being encouraged - lobster is lucrative, and ever-increasing in popularity, so demand is good.

CLIMATE

Newfoundland's weather is at its best in July and August. In these months the weather is usually pleasant and fairly warm. Newfoundland fog, particularly in coastal areas is common. There is fairly heavy precipitation and strong winds. Bring clothing that protects you from rain and moisture. Labrador is particularly cool. For many visitors the cooler weather is a welcome break from the hot summers further south. Winter on the island does not necessarily have as much in the way of snow that the rest of Canada does. It does snow though and there are some excellent skiing facilities, some of the best in Eastern North America. The inbound winter storms from the Atlantic can be a spectacular sight.

TRANSPORTATION

The island of Newfoundland is only accessible by air and ferry. Labrador can also be reached by highway from Québec. The ferry service runs year-round from North Sydney, NS to Channel-Port aux Basques, NL and in the summer an additional service is operated from North Sydney to Argentia, NL. There is also a passenger/freighter service from St. Anthony to several ports along the coast of Labrador. There is a twice-weekly service from Lewisporte to Happy Valley-Goose Bay. A variety of year-round and seasonal ferries service smaller islands and coastal communities. The province has a good system of internal bus services. The St. John's airport has direct flights from Halifax, Toronto, Montréal and London, England, with worldwide connections at these points. There are also flights to various regional airports in the province from St John's, and some of these airports have direct service to Halifax, Montréal and Toronto.

FEATURED ATTRACTIONS

One thousand years ago Viking settlers led by Leif Erickson came from Europe and Greenland and became the first Europeans to reach North America. The site of this settlement is at L'Anse-aux-Meadows National Historic Park, the first place of its kind to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Norwegian explorer Helge Ingstad discovered the settlement. Ingstad received assistance from a local man named George Decker, who pointed out mounds in the ground of the site, which led to the unearthing of the buildings. As well as the great historical and social significance of this place, what makes it even more enjoyable for the visitor is the unobtrusive way the park has been developed. The site on the shore at the northern tip of the island looks very much the way it did when the Vikings first arrived here. The achievements of the Vikings in reaching here is truly remarkable, and the settlement they created is equally notable. As an example of their enterprising character, the Vikings smelted iron from ore that they found in the bog, and made nails from it. Archaeologists have unearthed eight buildings of earth and grass, and replicas have been made of three of these. These are so authentic that they even have the smoky odour that would have been prevalent. You can visit the replicas and sample a Viking meal. It is also possible to walk around the site of the eight original buildings. There is a 3 km (1.9 mi) trail that leads around the park and along the coast.

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site on Newfoundland is Gros Morne National Park. This park, in the western part of the island, covers 1805 sq km (697 sq mi). The name Gros Morne means 'great lone bill,' and is a part of the Great Northern Peninsula of Newfoundland. Of great geological significance, it is known as the 'Galapagos of Geology.' The park's fantastic landscape was created by continental drift, and glacial erosion carved out its features. The park is famous for its fjords that are said to rival those of Scandinavia. Of these Western Brook Pond and Trout River Pond are considered the best - the cliffs rise to nearly 700 m (766 yd). Don't miss the Tablelands - a 600 m (656 yd)high plateau of exposed rock from inside the earth. As a rule this type of rock is only to be found deep beneath the ocean floor. For hikers, Gros Morne has more than 100 km (61 mi) of outstanding trails. There are many sandy beaches and coves and it is possible to see volcanic 'pillow rocks' formed along the coast as lava was cooled by the sea. The wildlife at Gros Morne is varied, and includes the ubiquitous and awesome moose, (which has thrived on Newfoundland but is not indigenous to the island) caribou, beaver, squirrels and giant Arctic hares. Less common, but also present, are black bear, fox and lynx. Offshore it is possible to see seals and occasionally whales. Fishing opportunities abound, both in the inland rivers, lakes and fjords and in the ocean. In winter some of the best downhill and cross country skiing in Eastern North America is at Gros Morne. Marble Mountain is a particularly acclaimed downhill ski resort. The flora of the park is as varied as the wildlife. There are many different types of mosses and lichens, wild orchids and various berries. Gros Morne has excellent facilities for visitors. Everything for all types of travellers is here, with a wide range of camping facilities, cabins, hotels and motels.

	The Battery at St. John's Harbour

The capital of Newfoundland and Labrador is St. John's and the colourful homes that cling to the steep hills rising dramatically from St. John's Harbour are a world famous sight. St John's is one of the oldest cities in North America, and is full of character and charm. The streets are narrow, and everywhere there are stairs to help navigate the high gradient of the hills. St. John's is a city of paradoxes: it is the capital of the province and in this regard it is a busy place, and yet retains a small town feel about it. It still has much of the fishing village atmosphere, and yet today it is on the brink of becoming a major oil centre. There are many interesting things to see and do here, many buildings with stunning architecture, and good museums, science centres and churches. The nightlife here, though far from formal, is about as good as it gets, as St. John's is definitely a party town. There is plenty of live entertainment, much of it with a Celtic emphasis, and many excellent pubs with good locally brewed beer. In St. John's, 'Happy Hour' can last between 11am and 7pm! To see a phenomenal view of St. John's Harbour the best place is Signal Hill National Historic Park. Signal Hill rises 160 m (175 yd) above the approach to St. John's Harbour. This is a good vantage point to view icebergs and whales. This was the scene of many a battle between the British and the French. It is still possible to view some of the batteries and barracks from when Signal Hill housed a military garrison. In summer there is the Signal Hill Tattoo, a re-enactment of military exercises and military music held by soldiers from the garrison. Signal Hill is particularly famous for being the place where Marconi received the first Transatlantic wireless signal. There are several other sights of interest in the park, including Cabot Tower, built to commemorate the 400th anniversary of John Cabot's voyage to Newfoundland.

Fifteen minutes drive southeast of St. John's is Cape Spear National Historic Site. This is the most easterly point on the continent of North American. Like Signal Hill the view from here is splendid, and it is also a great viewpoint to see icebergs and the occasional whale. The 1835 Cape Spear Lighthouse that is here has been refurbished, and it is possible to tour this and the batteries and magazines that were built to protect the harbour during World War II. The trail here takes you along the cliffs, to the observation deck that marks the most easterly point on the continent, and then continues on to the lighthouse.

Iceberg off the Newfoundland Coast

In recent years, with the renewed interest in the 'Titanic' tragedy, there is also a particular fascination with icebergs. Newfoundland and Labrador is the place to see these amazing ice castles. In fact the 'Titanic' hit the iceberg not too far from Grand Bank, off southeast Newfoundland. These must be one of nature's finest feats of construction. Some icebergs can tower as high as five storeys, and this is particularly incredible when one considers that usually only about one eighth of the iceberg appears above the surface. The average iceberg is 30 m (33 yd) high and weighs around 207,000 tonnes (204,000 tons). There are several different types of icebergs. Particularly lethal to watercraft are 'growlers' which are lower in the water and very unstable. Small icebergs are known as 'bergy bits', and 'slob ice' are bergs consisting of small and slushy ice pieces. Icebergs can be seen off many parts of the coast of Newfoundland and Labrador, usually between May and July. Each year an average of 370 icebergs drift as far south as St. John's, but in 1984 over 2000 reached there. While St John's is a good place to view the icebergs, particularly at Signal Hill and Cape Spear, the best place on Newfoundland to see icebergs is from Twillingate Island in Notre Dame Bay on the north of the island.

	Puffins - Newfoundland's Official Provincial Bird

Newfoundland and Labrador is a paradise for bird watchers. The provincial bird is the puffin - sometimes called the sea parrot. With a brightly coloured beak, and a short stubby body, these birds have a definite comical appearance. Witless Bay Ecological Reserve is the largest Atlantic puffin colony in North America and is just 30 km (19 mi) south of St. John's. These appealing creatures gorge on the plentiful fish stocks in the water here. Their favourite is the capelin. They eat until they are so full, they can hardly fly. Then they struggle to their nesting areas burrowed in the cliffs of Gull and Great Islands and breed. There are not only puffins here, but also a plethora of other sea birds. These include black-headed gulls and fulmars from Europe and gannets (especially at Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve). Interestingly, Gannet Island off the coast of Labrador has no gannets whatsoever, but has twenty-four thousand razor bills. Baccalieu Island has more than seven million storm petrels colonizing there. Imagine the noise of more than a million pairs of breeding sea birds in one area. Over their territory the sky is actually darkened by the number of flying birds. Another interesting bird that is relatively plentiful in the province is the bald eagle. Newfoundland has over 400 pairs of these throughout the island - Placentia Bay and Trinity Bay are good places to view these. Other birds here include falcons, hawks and boreal owls. The list goes on; even if you are not an avid ornithologist, the birds of Newfoundland and Labrador are certainly a worthwhile attraction.

Though attached to the mainland along its border with Quebec, and though it is well connected to Newfoundland by ferry and air, Labrador is very much a wilderness. This offers many opportunities for the visitor, especially adventure travellers. Mountain ranges with sheer rock walls raising 1524 m (5,000 ft) above the ocean are enticing to rock-climbers. The fishing opportunities in Labrador are phenomenal. It is not unusual to catch a 3 kg (7 lb) brook trout. Fishing for Atlantic salmon in the rivers is also legendary in fishing circles. The unspoiled landscape and environment here assures the presence of large quantities of wildlife including wolves, polar bear, whales and seals. One of the most novel and pleasant ways to get a good overall picture of coastal Labrador is to take the boat that sails regularly between St. Anthony on Newfoundland, up the coast of Labrador as far as Nain. The ship, the M.V. Northern Ranger, is a passenger-freighter that provides a vital link for passengers and supplies for these communities. Taking this trip is described by the shipping company as 'cruising Labrador', and that is certainly what it entails. Fares for this are surprisingly reasonable, the food is generally good local fare and the accommodations are relatively comfortable.